In the Footsteps of Leichhardt
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DAY 1 - Tuesday 10 June
Brisbane - Toowoomba - Jimbour - Chinchilla - Taroom
- "It was at the end of September, 1844, when we completed the necessary preparations for our journey.. We arrived on the 30th September at Jimba (Jimbour) where we were to bid farewell to civilisation ..The plains as we passed, were covered with the most luxuriant grass and herbage. Belts of open forest land separate the different plains and patches of scrub.
- Oct 1 - .we left Jimba, and launched, buoyant with hope, into the wilderness of Australia.
- Oct 7 - .we came, after a few miles travelling to the Condamine - it has a broad irregular bed, and was, at the time, well provided with water."
(Overnight Cattle Camp Motel - 468km)
DAY 2 - Wednesday 11 June
Taroom - Rolleston - Comet - Emerald
- "Oct 19 - as we left the Myal country of the Condamine, we left also its herbage, abounding in composite, leguminous, and chenopodiaceous plants, with a great variety of grasses.
- Oct 23 - We travelled in a N.W. direction, through a Casuarina thicket, but soon entered again into fine open Ironbark Forest, with occasionally close underwood.
- Oct 28 - we came on a creek with running water, which from the number of Dogwood shrubs (Jacksonia), in full glory of their golden blossoms, I called 'Dogwood Creek'
- Nov 6 - Fine box and apple-tree flats were on both sides of the creek, now deserving the appellation of a 'river' and which I called the 'Dawson' in acknowledgement of the kind support I received from R Dawson of Black Ck, Hunters River.
- Nov 19 - I called this 'Robinsons Creek'. At its left bank, we saw a wide sheet of water beyond which rose a range densely covered with scrub, I called them 'Murphy's Lake and Range' after John Murphy, one of my companions.
- Dec 28 - the thunderstorm had passed, and the sun had set, when Brown, my blackfellow pointed out to me a fine comet in a clear spot in the western sky.the creek received the appropriate name of 'Comet Creek'."
(Overnight Emerald Meteor Motel - 475km)
DAY 3 - Thursday 12 June
Emerald - Dysart- Nebo - Eungella
- "Jan 27 - We passed over plains and lightly timbered basaltic ridges - the plains were richly grassed.3 peaks of this range were particularly striking.the s. eastern I called 'Ropers Peak', after my companion who afterwards ascended it, and the n.w; 'Scotts Peak' after Helenus Scott, Esq. of Glendon, Hunters River.another peak which I gave the name of 'Macarthurs Peak', after Mr William Macarthur of Cambden.
- Feb 6 - About a mile and a half north from the camp we came to an isolated peak, which I ascended and from its summit enjoyed the finest view of the Peak Range I had yet seen. A long flat topped mountain I called the 'Lords Table Range' after E. Lord Esq. of Morton Bay; and a sharp needle-like rock received the name of 'Fletchers Awl' after Mr John Fletcher.
- Feb 13 - the river came from the north and northwest, skirting some fine ranges.I called it the 'Isaacs'."
(Next two nights - Broken River Mountain Resort - 456km)
DAY 4 - Friday 13 June
Eungella ('young-gella') National Park
- Time out today to enjoy Eungella National Park; a 51,000 hectare reserve west of Mackay, and one of Queensland's most spectacular National parks.
"By my lunar observations, I made our latitude 22T 57'; so that our distance from Broad Sound 100 miles."
DAY 5 - Saturday 14 June
Eungella - Mt Coolon - Burdekin Dam - Charters Towers
- "Mar 7 - We travelled about 70 miles along the Isaacs. If we consider the extent of its Bastard-box and narrow-leaved Ironbark flats, and the silver leaved ironbark ridges on its left bank, and the fine open country between the two ranges through which it breaks, we shall not probably find a country better adapted for pastoral pursuits.
- Apr 2 - .I passed to the eastern side of Mt McConnel and reached by that route the junction of the Suttor with a newly discovered river, which I called the Burdekin.flood marks, from 15 to 18 ft above the banks, showed that an immense body of water occasionally sweeps down its wide channel."
(Next two nights - Park Motel Charters Towers - 450km)
DAY 6 - Sunday 15 June
Charters Towers
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Charters Towers has more National Trust properties than any other place in Queensland - many of these were built on the gold boom of the late 1800's with a peak population of 30,000, 100 gold mines and about the same number of hotels and taverns. Time to explore this town and talk to locals who are enthusiastic about Leichhardt's expedition.
DAY 7 - Monday 16 June
Charters Towers - Clarke River - Valley of Lagoons - Cobbold Gorge
- "April 22 - .we travelled about 9 miles west making our latitude 19T 12'. Ranges ran parallel to the river at different distances.a river as large or even larger than the Burdekin joins the latter from the westward and southwest - I called.the 'Clarke', in compliment to the Rev. W.B. Clarke.
- May 3 - from the top of the hills I enjoyed a most beautiful view of the valley of the river, with its large lagoons covered with Nymphaeas and Damasoniums.
- May 25 - we travelled about 8 miles down the Lynd.the country was very mountainous."
(Next two nights - Cobbold Gorge - 530km)
DAY 8 - Tuesday 17 June
DAY 9 - Wednesday 18 June
Cobbold Gorge - Georgetown - Croydon - Karumba
- From the Valley of Lagoons Leichhardt followed the Lynd and the Mitchell Rivers northwest and then southwest for over 800kms taking nearly all of June and July. There is no accommodation in this section and very few roads near the Gulf of Carpentaria so we will join Leichhardt's group when they reach the Carron River near Normanton.
- "Jul 17 - .we travelled.south west over an almost uninterrupted box and Melaleuca flat...about 2 miles and a ½ we came to the Caron River (Corners Inlet).its sandy and occasionally rocky bed was dry; but parallel lines of Nymphaea lagoons extended on both sides.at about 5 miles from the camp, we came to salt water inlets, densely surrounded by mangroves.
- "Jul 18 - Charley rode through the dry mangrove scrub and came on a sandy beach with the broad ocean before him."
(Overnight - Matilda's End Karumba - 380km)
DAY 10 - Thursday 19 June
Karumba - Burke & Wills Camp 119 - Leichhardt Falls - Burketown
- "July 19 - .we travelled due south.through a succession of stunted tea tree thickets and tea tree forests.we came to a fine river with salt water about 250 or 300 yards broad, with low banks fringed with stunted mangroves.the country about the river was an open box forest.
- July 24 - .crossed several plains separated by belts of open forest, and came to a fine salt-water river.we found a good crossing place at a fishery of the natives.
- Aug 6 - .followed the winding course of the river up to latitude 17T 57'. The river, I am inclined to think is the Albert of Captain Stokes."
(Overnight - Burketown Hotel)
DAY 11 - Friday 20 June
Burketown - Hells Gate - Calvert River - Borroloola
- "Aug 20 - .we crossed Beames Brook without difficulty.over a plain, when we came to a river with a broad sandy bed and steep banks; overgrown with large drooping tea trees.I called this river the 'Nicholson'
- Aug 24 - .our journey round the head of the gulf had shown that the 'Plains of Promise' of Capt. Stokes extended from Big Plain River to the Nicholson.
- Sept 8 - .we saw a low range in the form of a horse-shoe, and a higher one beyond it in the distance. We encamped at a small river.contained in its bed two chains of small deep ponds full of perches, and shaded with Pandanus and drooping tea trees.I named this river the 'Calvert'
- Sept 14 - .we killed seven of them, but they were not fat, and none seemed more than a year old. This extraordinary success induced me to call this river the 'Seven Emu River'.
- Sept 21 - .our journey today.through stringy bark forest, in which the Melaleuca and the Cypress pine were either scattered; or formed small patches of forest.our course was intercepted by the largest salt water river we had yet seen.the Macarthur."
(Next two nights - Borroloola Inn - 580km)
DAY 12 - Saturday 21 June
Borroloola
Time out to enjoy a relaxing day in and around Borroloola.
DAY 13 - Sunday 22 June
Borroloola - Limmen Bight - Roper Bar - Mataranka
- "Oct 9 - I went with Brown to examine the country along the river, which I called 'Limmen Bight River'
- Oct 13 - .there were four very remarkable flat-topped cones of sandstone, which appeared like a plateau cut into 4 detached masses. These I called the '4 Archers'
- Oct 14 - .the river was formed by two broad sandy beds, separated by a high bergue, and was full 700 yards from bank to bank. I called it the 'Wickham'
- Oct 19 - .they had not exaggerated.the size of the lagoon, nor of the exuberance of animal life on it - myriads of ducks and geese rise and fly up and down the lagoon.which was bounded on the left by a stony rise of flaggy Psammite.300 yards to the northward.I found myself on the banks of a large freshwater river.the river Mr Roper had seen 2 days before, and I named it after him.
- Oct 23 - .a ledge of rocks crossed the bed, over which a considerable stream formed a small fall and rapids; above this was a fine sheet of water, overhung with shady tea trees, Casuarinas and Pandanus, which made the crossing place extremely lovely."
(Overnight - Homestead Resort - 595km)
DAY 14 - Monday 23 June
Mataranka - Katherine - Pine Creek - Yellow Waters
- "Nov 11 - .from one of the hills which bounded its narrow valley, I had a most disheartening, sickening view over a tremendously rocky country. A high land composed of horizontal strata of sandstone, seemed to be literally hashed, leaving the remaining blocks in fantastic figures of every shape."
(Overnight - Gagudgu Lodge Cooinda - 455km)
DAY 15 - Tuesday 24 June
Yellow Waters - Jabiru
- Today we will explore Yellow Waters and Kakadu, visiting billabongs and Aboriginal art sites on our way to our overnight stay at Jabiru. From Roper River, Leichhardt travelled northwest along Flying Fox Creek and then across the South Alligator River before travelling north to Port Essington.
- "Nov 24 - .we were according to my latitude, and to my course, at the South Alligator River, about 60 miles from its mouth, and about 140 miles from Port Essington."
(Overnight Gagudgu Crocodile Holiday Inn)
DAY 16 - Wednesday 25 June
Jabiru - Ubirr - Border Store - Oenpelli - Cobourg Peninsula
- After breakfast we travel to the Northern region of Kakadu National Park and Cahill's Crossing on the East Alligator River where we enter Arnhemland. A 15km scenic drive to Gunbalanya Aboriginal community provides some of the best driving views in the Top End. Floodplains covered in bird life and water lily's running up along side the Arnhemland escarpment. Upon arrival at Gunbalanya we will visit the Injalak arts and craft Centre. Meet and watch traditional local artists in action before departing with our Aboriginal guide to be shown around the Injalak Hill Art sites. Spend the morning experiencing some of the best Aboriginal Art sites in Australia before returning to the Injalak Art Centre where we leave our host and journey onto the Cobourg Peninsula. We head straight for the permanent Coastal Camp to settle in and enjoy the sunset.
- "Nov 26 - .about six miles from our last camp, an immense plain opened before us.to form the whole country, of the remarkable and picturesque character of which it will be difficult to convey a correct idea to the reader.
- Nov 28 - .not a night had passed without long files and phalanxes of geese taking their flight up and down the river.whistling ducks in close flocks."
(Next two nights - Venture North Coastal Camp)
DAY 17 - Thursday 26 June
Cobourg Peninsula
- Today we spend the morning exploring the Cobourg Marine Park by boat enroute to the Victoria Settlement ruins. The Victoria settlement was established between 1838 - 1849 by the British as one of the first settlements in Northern Australia. The stone ruins are still standing on the shoreline of Port Essington and serve as a reminder of the harshness early settlers faced. Cobourg is also abundant in some amazing marine life such as Dugong, Dolphins, 6 species of Marine Turtles, Crocodiles, Stingray's and plenty of fish. Return to camp to explore more of the surrounding area before sitting back to enjoy sunset and a fresh BBQ dinner.
- "Dec 8 - I went to the westward, to avoid the rocky ground, and if possible to come into the valley of the East Alligator River...
- Dec 16 - .we compared our little map of the harbour of Port Essington with the configuration of the bay before us, but nothing would agree exactly.
- Dec 17 - .we came to a cart road which wound round the foot of a high hill, and having passed the garden - the white houses, and a row of snug thatched cottages burst suddenly upon us.I was deeply affected in finding myself again in civilised society, and could scarcely speak, the words growing big with tears and emotion."
DAY 18 - Friday 27 June |
